Well Repair, Maintenance, & Rehabilitation

Sputtering faucets, sandy water, or a pump that never rests often mean your well needs work, not replacement. We find the real cause, fix it properly, and tell you straight when a repair is not worth the money.

Service

Repair & rehab

Wells

Home, farm, & commercial

Permits

Handled for you

Emergency

Troubleshooting

Six Signs Your Well Needs Attention

Wells rarely quit all at once. They drop hints first, and each hint points toward a different cause.

Low Flow

Weak pressure at every tap can mean a clogged screen, a worn pump, or a water level that has dropped in the well. A flow test tells us which one you are dealing with.

Sand or Sediment

Grit in the toilet tank or plugged faucet screens can point to a failing screen, a damaged casing, or a pump hung too close to the bottom of the well.

Sputtering or Air in the Lines

Faucets that spit and cough can mean the water level is falling to the pump intake, a leak on the suction side of a jet pump, or gas coming out of the water.

Discolored Water

Orange, brown, or black water usually traces back to iron, manganese, or iron bacteria. Iron is common in shallow wells around Okeechobee. Cloudy water after a heavy rain can mean surface water is getting in.

Pump Short-Cycling

A pump that clicks on and off every few seconds is wearing itself out. The usual culprit is a waterlogged pressure tank or a bad pressure switch.

Rotten-Egg Smell

That sulfur odor is hydrogen sulfide. It is common in Florida wells and can also come from bacteria in the well or the water heater. Shock chlorination is often the first step.

Diagnosis First, Parts Second

Swapping parts until a problem goes away is expensive guesswork. We test the whole system, then show you what we found. We work on any well, whoever drilled it.

01

Hear the History

When did it start? Is it worse in the morning, after the sprinklers run, or after a storm? The pattern narrows the list quickly. We also look up the well’s completion report. The South Florida Water Management District has required them since 1985, so many older wells have their depth and casing on record.

02

Test the Equipment

We check the pressure switch, the tank’s air charge, the wiring, and the power the pump motor draws, to see whether it is working normally or struggling.

03

Test the Well

We measure flow and water level, look for sand and air, and sample the water when quality is part of the complaint. When needed, we pull the pump to inspect it and the well.

04

Lay Out the Options

You get the cause, your options, and a written price before any work starts. If a simple fix will do the job, we say so.

Well Jetting & Cleaning

Every year of pumping leaves a little more fine sand, mineral scale, and bacterial slime in the screen and the formation around it. Flow drops each season until the pump starts to strain.

Jetting drives high-pressure water through the screen or open borehole to break that buildup loose. Then we pump the loosened material out until the well runs clear. For heavy scale or bacterial growth, jetting is paired with a cleaning treatment and a full disinfection. When cleaning does the job, it usually costs far less than drilling a new well.

Looking down a stone-lined water well shaft to groundwater

Okeechobee County Wells

Iron Bacteria & Mineral Buildup

Iron comes with the territory for many shallow wells around Okeechobee.

United States Geological Survey studies found high iron in the surficial aquifer across parts of Okeechobee County, enough to stain laundry and fixtures. The same work noted that iron bacteria can clog the screens of wells drilled in those high-iron zones.

Iron bacteria are not considered a health threat, but they feed on dissolved iron and build a sticky, rust-colored slime. That slime plugs screens, coats pump intakes, and fouls pipes, and it steadily chokes a well’s production if nobody deals with it.

The fix usually combines cleaning the well and shock chlorination. Where iron keeps returning, a filtration system keeps it out of the house. Learn more about water testing and treatment.

Looking down a brick-lined water well shaft to the water below

Shock Chlorination & Disinfection

The Florida Department of Health advises disinfecting a well whenever it is newly drilled, repaired, fitted with a new pump, or flooded.

Any time a well is opened, bacteria from the surface can ride in on tools, pipe, and wire. Shock chlorination knocks them out. We mix a strong chlorine solution into the well, circulate it through the plumbing so every line gets treated, and give it time to work.

Then we flush the system until the chlorine is gone, sending that water away from your septic drainfield and plantings. The final step is a bacteria test by a state-certified lab to confirm the disinfection worked.

Shock chlorination is also the usual first move against a sulfur smell or iron bacteria. If bacteria return after a proper shock, surface water is likely getting in somewhere, and we track down the leak. A sulfur smell that keeps coming back calls for ongoing water treatment instead.

Technician in gloves holding a water sample for testing

Was Your Wellhead Underwater?

After a hurricane or flood, treat the water as unsafe if floodwater covered the wellhead. Drink bottled water until a bacteria test confirms it is safe, and keep clear of flooded pump wiring until it has been checked. We disinfect, repair, and retest wells after storms.

Wellhead & Casing Repair

The top of the well is its first line of defense. If surface water can get in, so can bacteria.

Florida construction rules call for the casing on a private well to stand at least 12 inches above finished grade with a watertight seal against surface water, and a well that is not in use must be capped watertight. Plenty of older wells fall short. Casings get clipped by mowers and trucks, buried under fill, or left with loose caps that let insects, frogs, and runoff inside.

We repair or extend damaged casing, swap cracked caps for sanitary well caps that seal tight, and correct wellheads that were buried or poorly sealed. Florida requires a permit before a well is repaired or modified. Not every service call counts as a well repair, so we tell you up front whether yours does. When it does, we file the permit before work starts and send the completion report to the permitting office within 30 days of finishing.

Problems We Fix at the Wellhead

Well Inspections That Catch Problems Early

A little attention each year costs far less than an emergency call on a holiday weekend.

Annual Checkup

A yearly visit keeps a home well healthy. The Florida Department of Health also recommends testing private wells for bacteria and nitrate at least once a year, and again after repairs, flooding, or any change in taste, odor, or color.

Home Purchase or Sale

Buying or selling a home on a well? We check the whole system so nobody gets surprised at closing. Florida health officials suggest buyers test for coliform bacteria, nitrate, and lead.

Commercial Maintenance Programs

Farms, nurseries, and facilities cannot afford surprise downtime. We schedule service for commercial and agricultural wells, track how they perform, and plan repairs before they turn into emergencies.

Honest Advice

Repair or Replace? Here Is How We Decide

We drill new wells and we repair old ones, so we have no reason to push you either way.

Repair Usually Makes Sense When

A New Well Is the Better Buy When

If a new well is the right answer, we drill it and properly plug the old one, with both permits handled.

Rated 5 out of 5
“Always incredibly helpful and friendly, very dependable, they definitely go the extra mile!”
Rachel A.
Repeat customer

Questions About Well Repair?

Low flow, repair or replace, flooded wellheads, and how often to service a well, answered plainly on our FAQ page.

Need water? Let’s talk.

Call for a free estimate on a new well, a pump or tank, water treatment, and more. Emergency service is available around the clock, and we travel anywhere in Florida.
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