Frequently Asked Questions
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Residential Wells
Permit and septic setback questions are answered under Permits & Florida Well Rules.
How much does a new home well cost?
The price comes down to depth, well diameter, the pump and tank you need, and how far the well sits from the house. We look at the property first and then give you a free estimate, so you know the cost before any work starts. Financing is available if it helps to spread out the payments.
How deep will my well need to be?
That depends on where you are and which aquifer makes sense for you. USGS studies of Okeechobee County found that shallow surficial aquifer wells usually finish in one of three ranges: about 30 to 60 feet, 100 to 140 feet, or 180 to 240 feet. Floridan aquifer wells there commonly run 750 to 1,200 feet and mostly serve farms and other large users. We check records from nearby wells before we recommend a depth for your home well.
What size wells can you drill?
We drill wells from 2 to 24 inches in diameter. Smaller diameters suit most homes and landscape irrigation, while the larger sizes serve high-volume commercial and agricultural users. We size your well around the pump it will hold and the flow your household actually needs.
How long does it take to get a new well?
Timing depends mostly on how quickly the permit is approved and where your job falls on our schedule. After that, the work moves in a set order: drilling and casing, developing the well, installing the pump and tank, then disinfecting and testing the water. Your free estimate comes with a realistic timeline, so you can plan around it.
Will you test the water from my new well?
Yes. We disinfect and flush every new well and check the water before we call the job done. After that, the Florida Department of Health recommends testing a private well for bacteria and nitrate at least once a year. If the results show iron, sulfur, or hardness, we can recommend treatment that fits.
Commercial Wells
Water use permits and other paperwork are covered under Permits & Florida Well Rules.
What kinds of commercial wells do you build?
We build supply wells for businesses and facilities, temporary and permanent wells for construction sites, and irrigation wells for nurseries, golf courses, and landscape operations. Wells range from 2 to 24 inches in diameter, and we install the pumps, tanks, and treatment that go with them. On development sites, we also plug the old wells that are in the way.
Our well will supply drinking water to a business. What else is required?
A well that supplies piped drinking water to a nonresidential business is regulated as a limited use commercial public water system. It needs a Florida Department of Health construction permit for the water system on top of the well permit, and the county health department oversees it after that. We build the well to those standards and coordinate with the health department for you.
Can you get water to a job site with no power?
Yes. A solar-powered pump paired with a storage tank can supply a site that has no utility service, and portable tanks cover short-term needs. See solar well pumps and our off-grid questions for how those systems work.
Do you offer maintenance for commercial wells?
Yes. Scheduled checks of the pump, controls, tanks, and water quality catch wear before it shuts down your operation. We maintain systems we did not install too, and our 24/7 emergency line is there when something fails anyway. Read more about well maintenance.
What do you need from us to bid a commercial job?
Send the site location and county, what the water is for, your timeline, and any site plans you have. Use our estimate form or call 863-763-3221. We follow up with any questions, then send a free estimate, and we take jobs anywhere in Florida, big or small.
Agricultural Wells
Water use permits for irrigation are covered under Permits & Florida Well Rules.
What size well do I need for irrigation or livestock?
It depends on the peak flow you need, your acreage, the crop or herd, and what the aquifer can deliver. USGS studies of Okeechobee County put shallow well yields at roughly 10 to 400 gallons per minute and Upper Floridan wells at about 50 to 1,500. We size the well, pump, and storage to your operation and lay it all out in a free estimate.
Should my farm well tap the surficial aquifer or the Floridan?
Surficial wells cost less to drill and usually hold fresh water, which suits stock water and smaller irrigation zones. Floridan wells are the workhorses for big irrigation and cattle operations around Okeechobee, but USGS describes their water as ranging from marginally potable to brackish, and some flow on their own under artesian pressure. We recommend an aquifer after reviewing nearby well records and your demand.
Is cost-share available for farm water systems?
It may be. USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service programs such as EQIP can help eligible producers with wells, pumping plants including solar pumps, and livestock watering facilities. Check with your local NRCS office to see whether you qualify, and we can supply the equipment details your application needs. We also offer financing on the systems we install.
Can you pump water to a pasture with no electricity?
Yes. A solar pump with a storage tank works well on remote pastures, and a windmill lifts water with no power at all. Tanks and troughs set where the cattle graze finish the job. See our off-grid questions for help planning storage and backup.
Well Repair & Maintenance
Whether your repair needs a permit is covered under Permits & Florida Well Rules.
Why has my well’s water flow dropped?
The usual causes are a screen clogged by iron bacteria, scale, or sediment, or a pump that is wearing out. USGS research in Okeechobee County found that iron bacteria can clog well screens in high-iron areas. We test the pump and the well separately to find out which it is, and when buildup is to blame, jetting and cleaning often bring the flow back.
Can my old well be repaired instead of replaced?
Often it can. If the casing is sound and the well once made good water, cleaning, disinfection, or a new pump usually costs far less than a new well. When the casing is failing or the well keeps producing sand, we will tell you honestly that replacement is the better value.
How often should my well be checked, and do you inspect for home sales?
We recommend a checkup once a year, which lines up with the Florida Department of Health’s advice to test private wells for bacteria and nitrate at least annually. For a home sale or purchase, we check flow and pressure, the pump and tank, and the wellhead and casing, and we can arrange water sampling. Florida health officials suggest that buyers test for coliform bacteria, nitrate, and lead. Commercial and farm wells do best on a regular maintenance schedule.
My well flooded during a storm. Is the water safe to drink?
Treat it as unsafe until a test says otherwise. If floodwater covered the wellhead, UF’s Florida Well Owner Network advises testing for coliform bacteria right away and using bottled or boiled water until the results come back clean. The well usually needs to be shock-chlorinated and flushed as well, and we can inspect the wellhead, disinfect the well, and retest it.
Will you work on a well someone else drilled?
Yes. We service wells no matter who drilled them, including older wells with no paperwork. The South Florida Water Management District has required well completion reports since 1985, so a record of the depth and casing may be on file, and that speeds up the diagnosis.
Well Abandonment & Plugging
When does Florida require a well to be abandoned?
Florida requires abandonment when a well’s use has been permanently discontinued, or when it is too damaged to be used. At that point it must be plugged under a permit by a licensed water well contractor. A well you plan to use again has to stay capped watertight until then, because an open or poorly sealed well can let surface contamination reach the aquifer.
Can I just cap an old well myself?
A watertight cap is fine for a well you plan to use again. Permanently abandoning a well is a different job: Florida requires it to be filled from bottom to top with neat cement grout or bentonite and topped with at least 1 foot of neat cement grout, under a permit, by a licensed contractor. A cap alone leaves the open hole underneath. See how we handle well plugging.
I am switching to city water. Do I have to plug my well?
Not always. Many owners keep a sound well for irrigation after switching, as long as its plumbing stays completely separate from the city supply. Check with your utility, since some have their own rules, and if you will never use the well again, it should be plugged.
How much does it cost to plug a well?
It depends on the well’s depth and diameter, the condition of the casing, whether a pump and pipe have to be pulled, and how easy the site is to reach. We look at the well, give you a free estimate, and handle the permit and the completion report as part of the job. That report, filed within 30 days of the work, is your official proof that the well was plugged properly.
I have an artesian well that will not stop flowing. What can I do?
Florida law requires every flowing artesian well to have a valve that controls its discharge. We can install a valve, repair the wellhead or casing, or plug the well if you no longer need it. In Okeechobee County, USGS studies link free-flowing Floridan wells to brackish water getting into the shallow drinking water aquifer, so it is worth fixing soon.
Do you plug multiple wells on development sites?
Yes. We handle multi-well sites for developers, contractors, and landowners anywhere in Florida, including the permit and completion report for every well. Send us the site location and whatever you know about the wells, and we will put together a bid.
Water Pumps & Tanks
What are the signs my well pump is failing?
Watch for weak or swinging pressure, a pump that clicks on and off rapidly or never shuts off, air spitting from faucets, sand in the water, a jump in the power bill, or a breaker that keeps tripping. No water at all is usually the last stage. Calling at the first sign often turns an emergency into a simple pump repair.
What is the difference between submersible, jet, and centrifugal pumps?
A jet pump sits above ground and pulls water up by suction, so it suits wells where the water sits close to the surface. A submersible pump sits down in the well and pushes water up, which handles deeper wells and higher demand. Centrifugal pumps move large volumes for irrigation and transfer, and solar pumps run where there is no power at all. We match the pump to your well’s depth and your demand.
Why does my pump click on and off so often?
That is called short-cycling. The usual cause is a waterlogged pressure tank that has lost its air charge, or a faulty pressure switch. Every start wears the motor, so short-cycling can burn out a good pump early, and the fix is often a tank or a switch rather than a whole new pump.
Should I repair my pump or replace it?
If the pump is fairly new and the problem is a switch, capacitor, or tank, a repair usually makes sense. If it is older, has been repaired before, or no longer keeps up with your needs, replacement tends to cost less over time. We lay out both options with a written price so you can decide.
What kinds of tanks do you install?
We install pressure tanks that keep household pressure steady, permanent storage tanks in concrete or polyethylene, and portable tanks for job sites and seasonal needs. Storage is common with solar pumps, windmills, livestock watering, and construction sites, where water has to be banked ahead of peak demand.
I have no water. What should I check before I call?
Check whether the breaker for the well pump has tripped, and note what the pressure gauge on the tank reads. If the breaker trips again after one reset, leave it off so the pump is not damaged. Then call 863-763-3221, because emergency service is available 24/7 for no-water situations.
Water Testing & Treatment
How often should I test my well water, and for what?
The Florida Department of Health recommends testing a private well for bacteria and nitrate at least once a year, and again after repairs, flooding, or any change in taste, smell, or color. UF/IFAS guidance adds a lead test about every three years for most homes. A fuller test can also check iron, manganese, hardness, pH, hydrogen sulfide, tannins, and chloride, and health-related results should come from a state-certified laboratory. Florida does not require testing of single-family wells, so it is up to the owner, and we can help you choose the right tests.
Why does my water smell like rotten eggs?
That is hydrogen sulfide gas, one of the most common complaints with Florida wells. It is usually not a health risk, but it smells and tastes bad and can corrode plumbing at higher levels. Shock chlorination is the typical first step, followed by aeration or oxidation filtration if the odor returns. If you only notice it on the hot water side, the water heater may be the source instead.
What causes orange or brown stains on fixtures, laundry, or sidewalks?
It is almost always iron, which can stain at levels as low as 0.3 parts per million. USGS found high iron in parts of Okeechobee County’s shallow aquifer, so it shows up indoors and anywhere the sprinklers hit, from walls to driveways. An iron filter, oxidation system, or softener can remove it depending on the level, and a water test tells us which fits. In high-iron zones, iron bacteria can also clog the well itself, which calls for well cleaning.
My water looks like weak tea. Is it safe?
The color usually comes from tannins, natural compounds from decaying vegetation that are more common in shallow wells. Tannins are a cosmetic problem, not a health concern, and a tannin-specific resin system removes them. We still recommend a bacteria test, because discolored water can have more than one cause.
What are the signs of hard water, and will a softener fix it?
White crust on faucets, spotty dishes, soap that will not lather, and scale inside the water heater all point to hard water, which in Florida comes largely from limestone. USGS classifies water above 120 mg/L of hardness as hard and above 180 mg/L as very hard. Hard water is not a health risk, and a softener sized from your hardness test ends the scale problem.
Can I combine a softener, a filter, and a UV system?
Yes, and many Florida wells need exactly that. The order matters: sediment filtration first, then iron and sulfur removal, then softening, with UV last so the light passes through clear water. Each stage needs some upkeep, such as salt for the softener, fresh media or cartridges for the filters, and a new UV lamp as it ages, and we can handle that maintenance for you.
Off-Grid Water Systems
For raw land, remote pastures, cabins, and anyone who wants water when the grid goes down.
Can I live off-grid with a well in Florida?
Yes. About 2.5 million Floridians already rely on a private well for drinking water, according to UF/IFAS, and the pump on a well does not have to run off a power line. Pair the well with a solar pump or windmill, enough storage, and a pressure system, and a home can have normal running water. County building and septic rules still apply, so check those early, and see our off-grid water systems page for the whole setup.
What happens when the sun goes down or during a hurricane?
Stored water carries you through. We size the tank to cover nights and stormy stretches, and a utility outage cannot shut down a system that never relied on the grid. For extra security, we work with licensed electricians as needed on battery or generator backup for the pump, and a hand pump can supply water with no power at all. If floodwater covers the wellhead, Florida Department of Health guidance is to disinfect the well and test the water before anyone drinks it, and we can handle both after the storm.
Do you do the electrical work?
We work with licensed electricians as needed for backup power options, such as a battery bank or generator that can run your well pump when the sun or the grid is not available. We take care of the well, pump, storage, and plumbing, and we coordinate with the electrician so every piece fits together. You get one plan for your water, with the backup wiring in the hands of a licensed pro.
Can I add a hand pump as a backup?
Yes. We help with hand pumps, and we can help you add one to a suitable well as a backup that works with no power at all. Whether a hand pump will work depends on how deep the water sits and how your well is built, so we look at the well first and tell you plainly what fits.
Do I still need a permit for an off-grid well?
Yes. Florida requires a permit before any new well is built, whether or not it will ever connect to a power line. We prepare and file the permit, build the well to state standards, and file the completion report after the work. Septic setbacks still apply too, and you can read more under Permits & Florida Well Rules.
How much storage do I need?
It depends on how much water you use in a day and how many days of reserve you want on hand when the sun or wind does not cooperate. A household, a cattle herd, and a weekend hunting camp need very different amounts, so we work out the numbers with you and size the tanks to match. In most off-grid water systems, extra storage does more for reliability than batteries do, because stored water is ready whether or not the pump is running.
Solar Well Pumps
Does a solar well pump work at night or on cloudy days?
Pumping slows under heavy clouds and stops after sunset, so we design every solar well pump system with a storage tank that fills while the sun is out. That stored water carries you through nights and gray stretches. If you need more reserve, we can add storage capacity.
Can my existing well be converted to solar?
In many cases, yes. A conversion works when the well holds enough water, the casing is wide enough for a solar-ready pump, and your daily use can be pumped in daylight with storage covering the rest. We measure the well on site, then size the pump, panels, and controller from those numbers.
Can a solar pump supply an entire house?
Yes, with the right design. The solar pump fills a storage tank, and a pressure tank with a booster pump delivers normal pressure to the house. We size the system around how much water your household actually uses.
How much maintenance does a solar pump system need?
Very little. Keep the panels clean and free of shade, check the connections, and look over the tank and float controls from time to time. The pump in the well needs the same occasional service as any other well pump.
Windmill or solar: which is better for my pasture?
It comes down to your site. A windmill pumps day or night whenever there is a steady breeze, but the wheel needs open exposure above the trees. Solar only needs sun and can go almost anywhere, including right beside a trough, with storage covering the dark hours. Some ranches run both for backup, and we will recommend the better fit after looking at your site and water needs.
Windmills & Ag Solar
Do you still install windmills?
Yes. We install new windmills and repair old ones, work that few contractors still do. We set a new mill on a new well or a suitable existing one and match the wheel and pump cylinder to your water level and daily use. Older mills get repairs and scheduled maintenance to keep them pumping, and our windmill installation and repair page covers what goes into a new one.
How does a windmill water pump work?
Wind turns the wheel, and the gearbox in the head converts that rotation into a steady up-and-down stroke. A pump rod carries the stroke down to a cylinder in the well, where leathers and a check valve lift water on each upstroke and send it to your tank. It needs no electricity or fuel, so running costs come down to oil, grease, and occasional repairs.
Is a windmill just decorative?
No. A windmill can be ornamental, but one set over a working well is fully functional, pumping water to a trough, a tank, or a pond whenever the wheel turns. That is much of the appeal: the classic look and a steady supply of water from the same tower. If an older mill on your land has stopped pumping, we can inspect it and tell you what it takes to put it back to work.
Can a windmill keep my pond or lake filled or circulating?
Yes. A windmill pumps whenever the wind blows, so it can send a steady flow of well water into a livestock pond, an ornamental pond, or a lake, keeping the level up between rains and the water moving. How much it delivers depends on the wind at your site, the depth to water, and the size of the mill, so we size the system to the job. For fountains and pond pumps, see our ponds and fountains page.
Is a windmill a good fit for my property?
Windmills do best in open country with steady wind and a clear sweep above trees and buildings. How deep the water sits and how much you need matter too. We look at your site, your well, and your water use, and if a solar pump would serve you better, we will say so.
What upkeep does a windmill need?
Plan on regular gearbox oil changes and greasing, periodic checks of the blades, tail, and tower bolts, and inspection of the leathers and check valves down the well. Watching the output at the tank is your best early warning. We offer scheduled windmill maintenance so normal wear is caught before it becomes a breakdown.
Can you fix an older windmill?
Yes. We work on a wide range of windmills, old and new, and most share the same basic design, so worn leathers, broken rods, bent blades, gearbox wear, and tower problems are familiar work. If a part is no longer made or a tower is unsafe to climb, we will say so and lay out your options.
What can agricultural solar power run besides a well pump?
The most common jobs are irrigation pumps, livestock water, greenhouse lights and fans, and electric fence chargers. We size the panels, controls, and any battery storage to the equipment you need to run. Read more about agricultural solar.
Irrigation, Ponds, & Fountains
Can you drill a well just for my sprinkler system?
Yes. We drill the well, set a pump sized to your zones, and connect it to a new or existing sprinkler system. Like every new well in Florida, an irrigation well needs a permit, and we file it for you.
Can I drink the water from my irrigation well?
Not unless it was built and tested as a drinking water well. Irrigation wells are classed as non-potable and may sit as close as 50 feet to a septic tank or drainfield, while Florida requires 75 feet for a private drinking water well. If you want one well to do both jobs, tell us up front so we can site, build, and test it for drinking water.
Do watering restrictions apply to my private well?
Yes. In the South Florida Water Management District, the year-round landscape irrigation rule covers every water source, private wells included. It bans landscape watering from 10 am to 4 pm and sets watering days by address, with exceptions for things like new plantings, system repairs, and hand watering. Your city or county may be stricter, and we can set your controller to comply.
Why is part of my lawn dry even though the sprinklers run?
The usual causes are clogged or broken heads, a valve that is not opening fully, low pump pressure, a controller or sensor fault, too many heads on one zone, or spray blocked by shrubs that have grown in. Running the zone longer rarely fixes it. We test the zone, find the cause, and make the repair.
Can you get a replacement part for my controller or rain sensor?
Yes. Tell us the make and model, or send a photo of the part, and we will order the right replacement for your controller, wireless sensor, valve, or heads and install it for you. We can often track down parts that are hard to find locally.
Do you build fountains and ponds, or add fountains to existing ponds?
Both. We design and install fountains and ponds, including the pumps and plumbing that keep the water moving. For a pond you already have, we look at its size, depth, and setting, then recommend a floating fountain or aerator that fits it.
Permits & Florida Well Rules
These rules apply statewide, and we handle the paperwork on every job that needs it.
Do I need a permit to drill, repair, or plug a well in Florida?
Yes. Florida requires a permit before any new well is built and before an existing well is repaired, modified, or abandoned, whatever its size, and that includes private home wells. Not every service call counts as a well repair, so we tell you up front whether your job needs a permit. When it does, we prepare and file it as part of the job.
Who issues well permits in my county?
It depends on where the well is. Florida has five water management districts, and in many counties, including Okeechobee, St. Lucie, Martin, Indian River, Highlands, Glades, and Palm Beach, the county health department issues well permits on the district’s behalf. We find the right office and file the permit for you, wherever in Florida the job is.
How far does a well have to be from a septic system?
Florida rules keep septic tanks and drainfields at least 75 feet from a private drinking water well and at least 50 feet from a non-potable well, such as one used only for irrigation. Wells that serve public water systems need even more distance. We plan the well location around those setbacks before the rig shows up.
Does a business or farm well need a water use permit?
Usually, yes. Along with the well construction permit, a business well or an agricultural irrigation well generally needs a water use permit from the water management district, which grants the right to withdraw the water. Domestic use at a single-family home or duplex is exempt, as are wells used only for firefighting. We handle the construction permit and help coordinate the water use permit with you or your engineer.
What is a well completion report?
It is the official record of how a well was built, repaired, or plugged, including details such as depth and casing. Florida requires it to be filed with the permitting agency within 30 days after the work is finished, and we file it for you. Ask us for a copy to keep with your property records, since it also serves as proof that an old well was abandoned properly.
Are you licensed to work on wells anywhere in Florida?
Yes. Florida requires anyone in the business of building, repairing, or abandoning wells to hold a water well contractor license, and that license is valid statewide. It is the only well contractor license the state or any city or county requires, so it is worth asking anyone who offers to work on your well whether they hold one. We are Florida-licensed and insured on every job, and you can learn more about our company.
Service Area, Scheduling, & Payment
What areas do you serve?
Our home base is Okeechobee, and we work every day across Okeechobee, St. Lucie, Martin, Indian River, Highlands, and Glades counties. We also travel throughout Florida for commercial and agricultural jobs, big and small. See our service areas for the regions and towns we cover.
Will you come out for a small job far from Okeechobee?
Yes, when it is commercial or agricultural work. We take those jobs big and small anywhere in the state, and we will tell you how we would schedule and staff yours. Homeowners outside our core counties are welcome to call too, and we will tell you honestly whether we are the right fit.
Are estimates free, and do you offer financing?
Yes to both. Estimates are free whether the job is a new pressure switch or a commercial well, so you know the scope and price before work begins. Financing is available for wells, pumps, treatment systems, and more, so ask about it when we go over your estimate. Request a free estimate online or call 863-763-3221.
How soon can you get to me?
It depends on the job and the time of year. Emergency service for no-water situations is available 24/7, nights and weekends included, at 863-763-3221. Planned work such as a new well is scheduled once the permit is approved, and your estimate comes with a realistic timeline. Office hours are Monday to Friday, 8:00 am to 5:30 pm, with Saturday by appointment.
Can I talk with someone in Spanish?
Yes. Se habla español, so you can talk through your well, your estimate, and your schedule in Spanish. Just let us know when you call or stop by our Okeechobee office.
What if I am not sure what I need?
That is fine. Call, or choose “Not sure” on our estimate form, and describe what you are seeing, such as low pressure, a rotten-egg smell, orange stains, or no water at all. We will ask a few questions and point you toward the right fix, whether that is a well repair, a pump or tank, or water treatment.